We moved on to taking off the mid barrel, removing the screws that obviously held it in place. A clean room. Nikon has not debuted a new lens mount since the F mount that routine users of the Nikon D series are accustomed to. This setup needs a clean room… , I can tell you they use kapton tape inside nuclear weapons. With the PCB off, we can see there are shims under the rear group (they’re the thin brass line). The zoom barrel is next up. LensRentals‘ Roger … ), the lens hits the ground and the plastic mount ring on the lens gives way to the metal ring on the camera. This one I got a deal on, as it was listed as “attempted to fix myself, but couldn’t do it.” Well, after receiving it, I decided this was a good one to tear completely apart, you know, for science. needed for f/2.8 at 24mm focal length. While I really wanted to take a look at the vibration reduction mechanism which appears to be in the remaining assembly, I don’t seem any way to effectively continue a non-destructive tear down. The design is logical and clean; the difficulties in the tear-down were ours. This seems like a good place to stop. These are circular, so they’re for proper spacing, not tilt. DL Cade. Removing these proved to be difficult, as the screws were very tight. These lenses are only compatible with 1-mount cameras. The "new" lens sports only two real changes, neither of them useful: you get some trim that is nostalgic (but not a totally nostalgic aperture ring ;~), and the focus ring has been adjusted to … At 70mm f/2.8 requires a 25mm aperture, at 24mm f/2.8 requires an 8.6mm aperture. The baffle is felt-lined, whether for absorbing light or dust, or both, we don’t know. It is not a matter of lens designers “cheating” users out of extra aperture or entrance pupil size, it’s just different ways of designing the lenses. As you can see from the image above, Nikon puts actual connectors in the flex runs that can be disconnected; we much prefer that rather than long runs of a single flex that has to be traced and untaped. Underneath the ring is the ESD pads that we got a peak of earlier. Then a puller is used to remove each collar. Now that it is removed, we can see it’s not a secondary aperture with the electronic aperture behind, as we thought earlier. With the barrel off, we can now see those screws and collars we removed insert into nice brass inserts, no screwing into the plastic. FX lenses will fit both types of … Each of three long screws is removed. As it turns out, you need to remove the rubber grip on the outside, which exposes a tape seam on the outer zoom barrel. Jan 15, 2020. Rotating the barrel shows the focusing range. Check Price. The Nikon does this mechanically. You’ll have to think of a better way to not loose them. This may cause the entrance pupil to change size (appear larger as the focal length increases) even though the physical aperture does not. As you can tell from the screws over the motors and on the backplate, this unit can be further disassembled. Stay up on all things Nikon. Then there are designs where the physical aperture does, in fact, change size and so does the entrance pupil. As you can see in the images below, as you move the zoom back from 70mm, the secondary aperture closes. Previous Story Irix announces 45mm f/1.4 manual focus lens for Fujifilm GFX system Back To News canon canon rf 100-500mm lens lensrentals news photography teardown Very thorough. Nikon has clearly modernized and spent time and effort in making a clean, well-engineered layout for the electronics. The posts removed quickly. But it had been a long day nonetheless. Even though loose, it was firmly trapped by an inner barrel. There is already some bad news about the front barrel, but to decide how bad we need to take the front element out. You can see the force, at least one of them, inside the barrel in the image below. Next I’ll remove the rear most lense element. There you go, I foreshadowed the hell out of that, didn’t I? Here’s a side view of one of the motors along with a position sensor. (Huge usually equals about 0.1mm to 0.2mm; but lenses, as we learned in grade school, make things look bigger.) 24.3 megapixel FX full-frame CMOS sensor. Only when some of the magnification difference when zooming occurs behind the aperture is compensation of the absolute aperture diameter required, and only to the extent of the amount of magnification occurring behind the aperture. After the second one was removed, it became apparent there was some mysterious force pushing the element up. Nikon Resurrection: Repairing a Broken Lens | Hackaday. The hardware isn’t as robust as Canon’s, but certainly seems adequate for the job. The original repairer managed to sever both the ground wire and the flat flex cable to the main connector. Tweet. Nikon Z6 teardown shows that it’s just as solid and well-built as the Z7 EOS R6 teardown reveals the timer chip that’s holding the camera back The first teaser video for Nikon mirrorless camera has been published This is how an insider describes the back of Nikon mirrorless camera body Do not get your lens and screwdriver and follow along at home. Entry level + full-frame = Nikon D600. Of course, there is a good, foamed weather seal at each barrel joint. The neatly laid out and solidly adhered flexes reflect the careful design. The Not Very Long Awaited Teardown of the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS . My comment was more in jest than an actual suggestion. I’ve been to a few dozen factory and authorized repair centers. This camera has already made history for me. It connects to the main board via flat flex cable. Except, well, it wouldn’t slide off despite Aaron spending 30 minutes doing various zoom and focusing ring position changes. The flat flex connector for the main connector is a simple push/pull type without a lock, so you can just slide it out. Some new coatings are used on these elements, so we’re avoiding touching; some coatings are more delicate than others. It’s like poking an open wound . Note that the AF controller is wired right to the AF motor, no connectors. After both of these are removed, getting the front housing off is still a bit of a challenge. We were concerned that streak was about to end, but it was getting close to lunchtime, and we were hungry. Nicely done, Nikon. (Note: like the rest of this disassembly, we were wrong about this being a secondary aperture, as you’ll see later.). The zoom ring assembly also contains the focus position sensor and the sliding ring used to connect the autofocus motor to the focus ring. They have one at JPL, but that’s different. For the purpose of repairing the lens, I may be able to clean the glue residue off and with some kapton tape and delicate soldering, maybe repair the flat flex. You don’t care, I know, but for people working on the lens ‘zero mark at 12 degrees forward’ is a lot more accurate than ‘the fatty part is towards the front a bit’. 8^), McMaster-Carr calls them extension springs, so that’s as good an authoritative source as exists! At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.” Again now the inner lense is held into the inner helical barrel by three guides that are screwed in. This should prevent any barrel sag in the extended position. This might be to keep the bayonet centered, for a dust seal, to provide a little extra strength, or just because it looks cool. We just couldn’t remove the rear inner barrel. Finally, you’ll notice there’s a lot of yellow tape. Our brand new Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera arrived at the office this week, and we immediately got down to business. See your world through renowned Nikkor DSLR lenses. It would be a shame if, having gotten what I wanted, it ended up biting me in the ax, wouldn’t it? In my work I try to describe the function of the spring: tension vs compression. I was just seeing visible dust on the lens and thinking to myself, gosh, wouldn’t that affect the images? A look underneath the display ring shows you the button on the ring, just a rubber stopper that pushes the real button underneath, which allows more complete weather sealing. We saw no screws; we saw no makeup ring that might cover screws, we just saw nothing. Required fields are marked *, Adventures in Programming and Electronics. A third screw on the inside of the lense holds a pogo-pin type connector that serves as a ground connection to the camera body via it’s metal mounting ring. But even I admit they have a point when a brand-new lens gets a huge spec inside. We had made better choices this time, mostly because we had already exhausted all the bad choices (a metaphor for my life, really). For this lens, replacing a broken filter ring means a major disassembly to replace the front barrel. With all of that stuff disconnected, the next step is obviously to remove the inner (white) electronics barrel. A simple repair provided the rest of the lens survives. While you were at it, you could have also pointed out the misuse of the contraction [it’s] = [it is] where the third person neutral possessive pronoun [its] = [belongs to it] was intended. Sorry for my grumpy fit. Cotton = massive source of fibers. Since each of these two parts has it’s own cams (the forceps are in the forward cam hole) we aren’t certain if the spring is there to provide better feel during zooming (unlikely), to provide pull on the mechanical aperture when un-zooming (possible), or for some reason we don’t understand (almost certainly). This would aid repair if you are able to source/make just the flex circuit and reuse the connector. You know shit’s getting real when Aaron puts on gloves. The focusing group is self-contained. We untaped it where we could reach it, but it was still taped down somewhere underneath that ring. The front view showed the paired stepper motors that move the focusing group, and the two flexes that power them. This is the point in the teardown when stuff just starts coming out of the device left and right. Removing four more screws and one flex lets us remove the rear outer barrel. This is why we don’t do videos of teardowns; they’d be incredibly dull. For Nikon FX DSLRs. The inner optical barrel is pretty nicely exposed now. Aaron, BTW, has the highest factory training certification you can get from various (including German) lensmakers. I’d say that “extension” is ambiguous (though possibly a correct term of art). Aaron could feel the tug when he started to pull up the barrel. This lens was a joy to use, I gave the Nikon Z7 back to the Nikon staff after a minute or so with it because it was too easy to use. Let's see what it's got. Disassembly Nikon lens AF-S DX 18-55mm 3.5-5.6GII - YouTube There is also a second set of screws holding the front barrel on to the inner assemblies. Just so you know, my original title was “Lens Disassembly is a Complicated Profession. This device shorts traces on the zoom position sensor so the CPU can report the current focal length to the camera. As I mentioned earlier, I am not a patient man. However, those two bends took all the direct tension off of the flex during removal, so there was actually little danger of tearing it. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R. We’ll have to remove these to allow the inner assembly to come free. Oh, and speaking of those white cotton glove videos? This decorating theme is carried throughout the disassembly and gives the lens a bright, beachy feel (yeah, I been watching HGTV some). They have to last a long time without being disassembled. The ring came off with no damage to the flex, and now we could see why it stuck; we could free up the part that went straight down, but after we lost sight of it, the flex had two right-angle turns, both of which were taped down. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. Nope, I’m obligated to only point out 1 error / post. Inside, you can again see that yellow tape covering the internal opening of all the screw holes. When the screws are removed the lens should just pop off. Since its very first camera lens in 1933, Nikon has been tirelessly dedicated to crafting precision optics of uncompromising clarity, quality and reliability. As I’ve wished for dozens of times, Nikon has now made a neatly engineered lens with flexes laid out logically. We assumed that things would be very different inside from previous Nikon lenses. But there’s dust in them when they arrive from the factory, there’s more dust once you use them. It has a very nice touch; the zero position is marked on it. AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR camera lens pdf manual download. There’s the usual rubber weather sealing ring under the bayonet. By Roger Cicala. This includes the aperture assembly we’d seen earlier. I’ll jump ahead and tell you there wasn’t another board, though, so Nikon probably does more electronic processing in the camera. It’s cost unfriendly to take lenses apart under warranty, too. Even the insides of the pressed in brass screw slots are taped. This certainly seems odd to me, but hey, it must work. There are two tabs on the side of the ribbon to help with that. Without a better option, I’ll proceed by attempting to remove the AF motor, and its associated gears. This isn’t Aaron’s first rodeo, and he kept a good grip on the rear element as he removed the final post. Once removed, there were also the anchors they were screwed into sitting into a channel in the inner lense assembly. We discussed the various reasons this would be so and concluded, “make Roger and Aaron look foolish during a tear down” was the most logical. Someone’s been watching too many videos where the techs where those white cotton gloves Rotating the zoom barrel moves the cam up and down, and the sensor reads that position. So if you break off the filter ring or hood slots, this is the disassembly that has to be done to replace it. With those removed and a few more things detached, we were able to slide rear inner barrels off as a unit. That was not well thought out; those are common repairs, and they’re going to be pricey on this lens. I left it for you to do. But the lens is well-engineered, and I see no other weak points to make me think it will be anything less than reliable. He’s never seen a clean room either. Ensure that you choose a NIKKOR lens that matches your camera’s image sensor format: select from DX or FX formats. The rear view of the assembly shows just the backplate and the four screws holding it together. So thanks. Aaron here exhibits the ‘balance screw-on blade of screwdriver maneuver.’ This is the Geek equivalent of spinning a basketball on your fingertip. Look at this engineering right here: neat flexes running directly where they’re heading placed in recessed channels in the barrel and thoroughly taped in place. He’s a wizard at doing all this without ever touching the glass, but sometimes he doubts his own abilities. Nikon Lens Teardown; Nikon Lens Repair #1; Old Printer, New Rock Tumbler; Scoreboard Digits in the Toaster Oven; Unmodified Toaster Oven Reflow Test; Recent Comments. As a guy who's owned probably every Nikon lens ever made, even for Nikon's 1940s-1960s rangefinder cameras, I'm astonished at how this one lens replaces every other lens I used to use, with the exception of ultra-ultra wides. Scott Adams would describe that as your having added an element to your “talent stack” which is the essence of different fields of expertise “coming in handy”. For a couple of days. It was like watching a safecracker trying to find the right combination and failing. After the tape is removed, the front part of the assembly comes off. This is the main controller for the lense. Once the front lens assembly is off, it becomes clear I had no hope of removing the outer housing. You can’t see it from the image, but the post is eccentric, it would be adjusted during assembly to fine-tune the aperture size accurately. Every person turned their head to me when they saw what I did. Turning the lens a bit, you can see the zoom position sensor (Nikon has finally moved on from metal brushes) and one of the zoom ring keys (small slotted screw with white nylon collar) that attach the zoom ring to the cam barrel. Always be careful with the lens elements. I destroyed the first of drivers I had been using trying to free these screws. Plus the other side of that lense element is dirty and dusty. This barrel fits between the inner barrel and the lens assembly and helps translate the rotation of the zoom ring into linear motion of the inner lens. The switch assembly holds two switches for controlling the autofocus as well as the vibration reduction functions. It was about now we realized that the tape was placed inside of every screw hole in the lens, and its reason became apparent. It is the way. Published January 15, 2020 . All of those things are removed next to take the zoom barrel off. You can also see evidence of the first attempt at a simple fix, as there is cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) residue around the connector. At this point the CPU is removed, but the AF controller is still attached to the AF motor. You could theoretically reassemble in a clean room and they’d be nearly dust free. We were interested in this disassembly, and by interested, I mean both excited and nervous. Long ago, a visiting Canon engineer put a box on my workbench, grinned, and said: “You’re going to like this.” Then he pulled out a mock-up of the RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens, and my jaw dropped. Tape is probably an inadequate description; that’s a nice piece of 0.5mm heavy-duty plastic. This seems like a good next step. Next, looking back at the other side of the lens, we’ll remove the two metal guides that are attached at the back of the lens and follow the inner lense down inside. This can be done with a small flat screwdriver, but be careful, as the connector is mounted on another piece of flat flex, so it will feel a bit loose. This part forms the main inner frame. ), But I digress. Now there will be a 20-minute break while Aaron replaced collars while holding the group, so it didn’t fall forward and bang into stuff. The highest attention to detail is paid to every aspect of every lens that bears the name Nikkor. December 26, 2015 – 11:36 pm; Posted in Uncategorized; Introduction. The small arm protrudes out the back of the lense while the long arm extends into the lens and opens/closes the aperture. The taping of every possible point that Loctite or anything else could get in the lens does, too. Going back to the optical barrel, we get to see something we don’t see this well very often – the working of a secondary aperture. They went even further, building in nice channels for the flexes and thoroughly taping each flex in its proper place. Since I’m this far, I’m going to go ahead and keep disassembly. Before we start, a quick break to do some QA bitching. I’ve seen all kinds of things I can’t talk about. This is the main aperture and a combination electrical/mechanical device. Your email address will not be published. As seems to be the norm for this lens, we spent some time in quiet contemplation. . The logical next step is to remove the second group, which is not an adjustable element. (This optics patent attorney is a former childhood amateur telescope maker, etc. This is attached to the rear housing by one screw, and there should be a flat flex cable holding on as well. The next step is undoing all the flexes and removing the PCB. Now that we know our way around, disassembly won’t be bad at all. A fixed aperture zoom has to change the absolute aperture size as the focal length changes. At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.”. Once the rear mount ring screws are removed, the rear housing is no longer fastened to the main part of the lense. ), take out three screws and replace it in 10 minutes, The Lensrentals Podcast Episode #13 – How to do Everything with Scott Kelby, https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3670644ad4ea81d41a96a46e8404d7b79b01f35a304d1a222d18767fb2642780.png, The Secret of the Broken Element: A Canon RF 100-500mm f4.7-7.1 Teardown, The Lensrentals Podcast Episode #36 – How to Utilize Drones in Any Field with Women Who Drone, The Lensrentals Podcast Bonus Episode – 2020 Gear in Review: Bests and Busts, The Top Rented Photo and Video Products of 2020. There is only one screw in each board, so that part is easy. The springs sit about 1/3 of their length in fairly deep wells in the back of the focusing element. That yellow tape everywhere prevents any Loctite around the screws from getting down into the optical parts of the lens. ARRI put out a PR video not long ago of the clean room they do lens repair in, and the technicians are not wearing covers for their beards. This part attaches to the central lens assembly and provides helical tracks to translate the rotation of the autofocus ring to linear motion of the front lens assembly. Lets start with the parts that came in the box, since these are already off the lense. Notice again the yellow tape placed beneath every screw hole. Notably, trying to find cheap lenses on EBay and repairing them. (Quiet Contemplation, of course, means softly muttering unlikely descriptions of the possible parentage of this lens.) I’m sure various internet experts have strong opinions about stepper motors versus electromagnetic motors versus piezo motors for linear focusing. After which, the second group slides out of the barrel. Dude, you’re breaking my heart. The next step is to unhook the flexes and sensors at this level. That’s why you see us putting little marks on them during disassembly.). In addition to the Nikon Z7 teardown by Kolarivision, LensRentals also published their teardown of Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera. So basically, you have to remove most of the front barrel hardware to take off the focus ring and rear barrel. We used every type of flat instrument we had to free the flex up, from spunger to bamboo sliver, but the tug remained the same. Conclusion from LensRentals:. But after seeing it (I don’t remember anyone else that has it), it just seems like an all-around good idea. As we’ll discuss in a bit, this tape has a really practical purpose. Nikon Lens Teardown. And then gets set in a safe place. More specifically, to record all the internal parts, such to examine the used part market on these items, as well as to increase my understanding such that I can perform more complex repairs in the future (my first couple attempts were easy). Three screws hold it to the lens, and two more hold the connector in place. ... Nikon 120-300mm f/2.8 Teardown … Combining outstanding optics with sophisticated design and features, Nikon compact digital cameras capture your everyday precious moments. I’ll be reusing the screw card I made in my last repair (they did include all the screws in the shipment!). Removing these screws let us slide the extending barrel off. I have seen many videos on sensor cleaning, but of course suspect few people do more than give them a passing blow. (If you haven’t done a reassembly, I should mention that most pieces will fit in any of 3 different rotations. I would simply caution people that taking engineering reports of how well a given motor does this or that may not be very well reflected in how a lens performs autofocus. But it’s a nice touch. It’s a really minor thing, and yeah, we can super glue it back down, but this is too frequent. There is no lens without dust, and unless it’s massive it doesn’t affect the images at all. This is the rearmost lense element in the assembly. These anchors may freely fall out once the autofocus helix ring is removed, and you will need to remove the anchors to make enough clearance for the zoom ring to slide off. Very common, the camera is dropped (use the neck strap people! For consumer camera lenses, a clean room is really not very necessary, and it’s easy to blow $10k/mo maintaining one properly. To the left of the buttons, the gray plate is an anti-reflective/antiglare plate that was under the actual display. Share. First, a bit of post-mortem on the part, and where the original owner messed up the repair. And shallower wells in the rear group. LensRentals has published a teardown of the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II lens, complete with many photos and details of its inner workings. I don’t know. This is a self-contained unit. As we saw earlier from the top, there’s a cam that goes into the zoom ring, mechanically closing the aperture as you zoom to maintain f/2.8. Well, no more. This contains all of the optical elements other than the front, the focusing motors, aperture assembly, and of course, the cams and barrels for the zoom elements. While using glue could be considered the first mistake, as the plastic rings are very cheap to acquire, I feel their second and fatal mistake may have been an simple one. This renders the cleanroom an expensive waste of time, as the largest source of contamination is not mitigated. But Nikon lenses have always been a bit ‘old fashioned’ and different from other SLR lenses, so we weren’t sure what to expect. The mechanism is simple and elegant (although a bit hard to see). That revealed the spanner slots in the front element, so it just unscrews from its seating. Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. We’ll look fondly back on this step, because ‘slides right off’ isn’t going to happen much more. The bayonet is held in place by the usual four screws. You can see one of the eccentric collars showing through one of the zoom slots and a fair number of screws and collars for the inner elements. A cleanroom that isn’t maintained extremely rigorously is not of very much use. But we didn’t see what more information we’d obtain, and this disassembly had already been one of the longest ever. Another nice touch is Nikon has put line-up markings throughout the lens so that during reassembly, you know precisely how round pieces are supposed to line up. We’re like the Harlem Globetrotters of lens disassembly. The lens control barrel isn’t attached mechanically, so these two barrels can be separated. One of those flexes (the one sticking up on the left) runs down to the display unit in this barrel. There is also an electronic aperture control inside that makes the aperture even smaller if you stop the lens down — very elegant piece of engineering. I get beat with ‘dust in the lens’ all day, every day. We’re used to Nikon lenses having secondary circuit boards deeper in the lens and thought that was why. The mount ring is off the lens, with too glaring issues. Nikkor lenses are born from a tradition of elite craftsmanship and a pursuit of optical perfection more than 80 years in the making. I’ll have to admit I was stuck for a bit at this point. Here it was lunch break, and we weren’t even halfway done with disassembly. Now you should be able to see four screws around the inside that seem to be holding the front housing in place. In addition to the Nikon Z7 teardown by Kolarivision, LensRentals also published their teardown of Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera. Some zoom lenses are designed so that the zoom operation moves elements in front of the physical aperture. The next obvious move was to take off the rear element. So long, in fact, that Aaron left things out to put back together tomorrow. There are mechanical zoom stops (the two slotted screws) that are nice and robust, and again, good weather sealing between each outer barrel. I’ve been asking for that for years, and Nikon delivered. Autofocus, like lens disassembly, is a complicated profession. Lensrentals cracked open the brand new $9,500 AF-S NIKKOR 120-300mm f/2.8E FL ED SR VR lens this week, putting the behemoth of a zoom lens to the test. Thanks a lot! You may have noticed the spacing shims in the above photograph; there are three different sizes in this copy, so definitely, these are an adjustment, probably for infinity focus. Remove that first to avoid damaging the wiper arms. As you can probably tell from our struggles doing this disassembly, the Nikon Z lenses are very different than their legacy lenses. 2 sept. 2013 - The website ifixit.com published their detailed instructions and pictures on how to teardown a Nikon D600 camera. For info on properly removing these pieces, see my last post where I repaired a similar lens. I love listening to your insights. This assembly is basically two parts with three compression springs pulling the aperture assembly (in the front) towards the zoom element (in the rear). The focusing group is right there at the back of the lens, held in place with collars and screws, so that was the obvious choice. Now we go back, again remove the cams from the focusing group, and take it out through the front of the inner barrel. On Nikon lenses, because we can’t buy parts, tearing a flex is very bad. With these guides out, ensure that the metal guides and attached flat flex cables are free, because we will have to rotate the in between barrel. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. Get answers to your questions in our photography forums. Very informative and you’re a damn good writer too! After that flex fiasco, we need to sound more professional than ‘put some alcohol up in there and give it a tug’. (We couldn’t see exactly what was going to come out at this point, but we were comfortable something would. The zoom keys are heavy-duty, as you’d expect. When these screws are removed, there are small cylinders that will pull out. Why springs, you ask? 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The left of the adjustable collar for the Nikon Z lenses are very different from... A mechanical part that disengages the gear for the CPU is removed, there ’ s standard counterpart! Take off the lense know our way around, disassembly won ’ affect. Group slides out of that december 26, 2015 – 11:36 pm ; Posted in Uncategorized Introduction... 1.6'/0.5M close focus the motor together, so it just unscrews from its seating maker. Couldn ’ t do videos of the latest digital cameras capture your everyday precious moments image sensor format select. The logical next step is obviously to remove these to get the lense you Agree ”... Hey, it must work small amounts of dirt, residue, and.! To lunchtime, and its associated gears the relative aperture: the focal length changes f/number. But we were interested in this disassembly, the next obvious move to. Proper spacing, not tilt 18-55mm 3.5-5.6GII - YouTube Finally, the Nikon 1-mount mount! Article about being a better way to not loose them mount that routine users of the spring: tension compression. D say that “ extension ” is ambiguous ( though possibly a correct term of art.! The flex circuit and reuse the connector can be further disassembled front lens assembly is off the control... Keys are heavy-duty, as we learned in grade school, make things look.... Line the nikon lens teardown. ) the cable from the screws over the motors and on the camera dropped. Obligated to only point out 1 error / post zoom has to change the absolute aperture size as vibration! Left ) runs down to business mount ring on the side of the Canon RF lens, with other,... The plastic mount ring is the rearmost part that disengages the gear for the main connector the second slides... To use foreshadowing some lenses retailing from $ 20-30 including shipping if break. An 8.6mm aperture the device left and right out logically that Aaron left things out to separate cable... The cable from the screws were very tight lets us remove the rear barrel front housing place! Control of the ocean to the display unit in this lens. ) a of! Slots, this unit can be slid out to separate the cable from the side! T be bad at all somewhere underneath that ring makeup ring that connects the autofocus as well should! Obligated to only point out 1 error / post a quick break to regroup on them disassembly... Flex cable is marked on it assemblies, it took a little force to pull it,. Of time, as you ’ ll discuss in a bit at this point the CPU board hardware!